If F/W has taught us anything it’s to expect, the unexpected. Across the board brands are eschewing their trademarks and heading into unfamiliar territory, often with compelling results. One shining example of this phenomenon was the smart and sexy fall collection from Viktor and Rolf, which stripped the line’s look down to the bone and presented a modern vision of the V&R aesthetic.
Viktor and Rolf are known for their charming, at times quirky take on glamour and the theatrical way in which they present their collections. Admirers of their work often cite shows by referring back to that season’s key visual; who could forget Maggie Rizer becoming a human Matryoshka, or models being sent down the runway on a working assembly line. When it comes to impactful presentation Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are masters which makes the simplicity of their fall outing even more interesting. Gone was the pomp and circumstance of their previous showings and in its place a pared down and hard edged girlishness dominated their runway. If you’re in need of a sumptuous gown this season you’ll have to look elsewhere, the V&R catwalk was all about a short, kicky silhouette accessorized with glossy ankle boots and geometric clutches.
Sweeping change can be challenging, especially to a designer’s core audience, but it is often a necessary part of remaining relevant. The starkness of this black & white collection, might not mesh with preconceived notions about the house, but it certainly fits into the current obsession with simplicity, elegance and extremes.
The recent addition of legendary stylist, Marie-Amélie Sauvé to the Viktor and Rolf team was certainly felt in this collection and the straightforward presentation kept the focus directly on the clothes. As always Horsting and Snoeren’s skill with tailoring was evident, particularly on the ruffled pieces which were just flirty enough to soften all that black. All in all the looks the fresh-faced cast sauntered down the runway in were finely crafted and showcased a new side of this much loved brand.
Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé / Makeup: Pat McGrath / Hair: Luigi Murenu / Casting: Andrew Weir (ACW Worldwide) / Set design by Studio Job / Music by Joan as Policewoman / Production Bureau Betak
Photos: Stephan Moskovic / Text: Janelle Okwodu / Thanks to MDX for the news.